Cannabis Seed Germination Troubleshooting Guide

Published : ROYALQUEENSEEDS.com

We are proud to offer you this step-by-step guide to troubleshooting the germination process of cannabis seeds.

Our hope is that we can help you detect, and even prevent, some of the most common problems that can occur when germinating your seeds. 


Ensure a Proper Environment
To ensure that your seedlings start their life off on the right foot, it is important to ensure that the environment is optimal. The temperature, humidity and soil quality are all variables that are important to control. The pH in the water is also an important variable.

Many people mistakenly assume that this means they should use some sort of mini-greenhouse. Unfortunately, this is the most common reason that germination fails. 

It is also important to note here that soaking or sprouting the seeds in water or wet tissue is not recommended when your seeds are of the highest quality, this actually lowers your chance of getting healthy plants. 

Troubleshooting Seedlings
After your seedlings have sprouted but before they are full-fledged plants, many things can still go wrong. They can grow too tall and skinny, they can fall over or the seed casing can get stuck. Thankfully, most of these things can be easily fixed in the present and prevented in the future.

Tall Skinny Seedlings
The most common problem is seedlings that grow too tall and skinny. The most common reason for this is the insufficient light. To fix, simply move the plant to an area with better light and then support the seedlings so that they can regain their strength.

Dampening Off
Another common problem is seedlings that begin growing well and then simply fall over. It will look as though the stem simply gave out. This is caused by a fungal infection called dampening off. Unfortunately, there is no treatment for this ailment. Ensuring that soil is free of fungus and controlling variables like temperature and humidity are controlled are the only ways to ensure prevention in future seedlings.

Seed Casing Did Not Detach
When the seed casing does not detach, the seed was not placed deep enough in the soil. It can also be caused by soil that is too dry. To fix, simply spritz the plant with mineral water. After waiting a few moments, ease the casing off. In the future, this can be prevented by planting the seed deeper and ensuring that the soil stays moist.

Transferring
Once the seedlings are established, they can be transferred to the growth medium of choice. This should be done when the plants reach a height of two to three centimeters. 

We hope that this guide has been helpful. When germination is successful, you will begin to see results in about 7 days. After that, it is simply a matter of counting down until your harvest

Cannabis Nutrient and Deficiency Table

Published : JUL 8, 2014 royalqueenseeds.com

Nitrogen(N)
Symptoms of Nitrogen deficiency include; red stems, small growth, pale appearance to the plant, and a rapid yellowing of the lower leaves that spreads up the plant. To remedy this particular situation, simply add a organic fertilizer containing nitrogen and monitor.


Phosphorous(P)
Phosphorous deficiency symptoms include; red stems and slow, stunted, or deformed growth but also include darker green lower leaves as well as leaves that may yellow then die. Adding a organic fertilizer containing Phosphorous can fix this problem but, while improvement to damaged areas may not show, newer growth will appear normal.


Potassium(K)
Another issue similar to Nitrogen and Phosphorous deficiencies, Potassium deficiency has similar symptoms and include, curling of leaf ends as they die and stretching of the plant. This can be cured by adding a organic fertilizer containing Potassium. Another fix would be to flush the plant with water and half the normal amount of a balanced NPK (Nitrogen, Phosphorous, Potassium) nutrient solution.


Calcium(Ca)
Plants lacking Calcium balance can result in the soil becoming too acidic. Calcium deficiency can be fixed by foliar feeding (adding liquid fertilizer directly to plant leaves) one teaspoon of dolomatic lime per quart of water until the plant's condition approves.


Sulfer(S)
If the new growth of a plant contains yellowing, it is probably suffering from Sulfur deficiency. This deficiency can be cured by mixing one tablespoon of Epsom salts per gallon of water until the plant's condition improves.


Magnesium(Mg)
Magnesium deficiency usually starts in the middle of the plant and spreads to the younger leaves. Leaves turning yellow, or even white, with the veins remaining dark green is the best indicator of Magnesium deficiency and can best be cured by spraying with a 2 percent Epsom salt solution.


Iron(Fe)
Pale leaves with dark green veins are indicative of Iron deficiency and can be fixed by foliar feeding with a organic fertilizer containing Iron.


Manganese(Mn)
When large amounts of Magnesium are present in the soil, yellow or necrotic (dying or dead) spots will occur on the upper leaves. To cure, foliar feed with chemical fertilizer containing Manganese.


Boron(B)
Dead or greying shoots that appear burnt are indicative of Boron deficiency and can be treated with one teaspoon of Boric acid per gallon of water.


Molybdenum(Mb)
Mb deficiency includes yellowing of middle leaves and can be treated by adding organic fertilizer containing Molybdenum.


Zinc(Zn)
When white areas form at leaf tips or in between veins, the plant is Zinc deficient. This can be treated by adding organic fertilizer containing Zinc or by burying galvanized nails in the soil.


Over Fertilization
Indicated by yellow or burnt leaf tips, Over Fertilization can be fixed by flushing 3 gallons of water per every gallon of soil.

General Hydroponics 3-Part Nutrient Feed Schedule

Here's a slightly tweaked feeding schedule week by week  for General Hydrponics 3-Part Series. I will only use the volume of each part per gallon of water in the following manner: grow, micro, bloom, ppm range. Example – 10-5-5-400/800 would mean 10 ml grow 5 ml micro, 5 ml bloom and a ppm of 400-880. Remember it’s per gallon. 4 liters is just a little bit over 1 gallon. It should also be noted to use the hard water micro if your tap water is hard. I suggest using the hard water micro in place of the regular micro if your tap water is over 200 ppm total or you have over 70 ppm Ca. RO water users should use the regular micro.

1 gal – 3.785 liters

Veg –week 1  – 5ml Grow – 2.5ml Micro – 2.5ml Bloom-400/600 ppm
week 2  –  10ml Grow  – 5ml Micro – 3ml Bloom – 600/800 ppm
week 3  –  12ml Grow – 6ml Micro  – 3ml Bloom 800/1000 ppm (continue week 3 formula if additional veg time is required.)

Bloomweek 1  –   6ml Grow -6ml Micro – 10ml Bloom – 800/1200 ppm
week 2  –  3ml Grow -7ml Micro – 12ml Bloom – 1000/1400 ppm
week 3  –  3ml Grow -8ml Micro – 14ml Bloom – 1000/1400 ppm
week 4  –  3ml Grow -8ml Micro – 16ml Bloom – 1000/1400 ppm
week 5  –  (discussed in detail below*)
week 6  –  0ml Grow  – 7ml Micro – 20ml Bloom – 1000/1400 ppm
week 7 –   0ml Grow – 6ml Micro – 20ml Bloom (see bleow**)

**If running an 8 week strain you should only run the ferts during week 7 for a maximum of 3-4 days. This gives you 10 days for flushing. I should note that if I use ferts for a few days in week 7, I take the plants over the 8 week mark. Personally I flush for a min of 14 days. But 10 is bare minimum imo/ime.

The ppms work out almost exactly. I tend to lean toward the lower side of the range, unless I have a really heavy feeder that I know can handle it.

At every ressy change out I add in 5 drops per gallon of 35% food grade H2O2. During flush use ph adjusted water at 5.5-6.0
I will add Epsom salt at week 1 of bloom if the plants are heavy feeders AND I see signs of an Mg def. Otherwise I won’t use it. The only time I have ever had Mg def is during transition. The GH 3 part is a little low on Mg, but the PBP and Canna nutes are way lower.

Now- how to control your PH…
There are a couple factors that cause your PH to drift. The most common is running the nute solution too strong or too weak. If it’s too strong, your PH drops. If it’s too weak the PH rises. You have to find the balance point. If you find that the formula above is say, a little strong, and says you have a 20 gallon ressy, mix the nutes for 18 gallons. If it’s a little weak, mix it for 22 gallons. You follow?
The other common mistake is mixing your nutrient solution and trying to adjust the PH right away. You have to allow time for the ph buffers in the nutrient solution to do their job. Mix the nutes up, and bubble or circulate for 12 hours before even looking at your PH. You will find the PH to be almost right on target.
I use little or no ph adjusters. (Except during flush). I use tap water, with a starting PPM of 300-400 and a starting PH of 7.4-9.0 (That’s crazy you say! The water is too hard, you will never get stable PH and you will have too much Ca, causing a lockout of Mg!) Bollocks I say.
Every week, on Friday I drain the ressy and fill with plain water. I let that run overnight giving the plants a little flush. This also allows the chlorine and ammonia to evap. On Saturday morning, I mix the nutes into the ressy. I DO NOT adjust ph at this time. Let that run as is overnight. On Sunday morning, I check ph and adjust if needed. Usually don’t have to.
Doing things this way has saved me from constant PH drifts, and using about 150 ml of ph down every ressy change, and a little here and there throughout the week to keep it in the desired range. Now, the most I ever have to use is about 30ml. if any at all. (I have a 35 gallon ressy btw) My Ph stays at a constant 5.5-5.8.

Hydroponic Growing Guide

Republished by: DANKbucket.com
Original Publisher: RoyalQueenSeeds.com

The thought of starting out in hydroponics is scary but it can be done. In fact, it is much easier than it seems. Hopefully this guide will be helpful in setting up and maintaining your hydroponics system.

Hydroponics is a method of cultivating plants, specifically cannabis in this case, in a solution of water and nutrients.

What is Hydroponics
Hydroponics is a method of cultivating plants, specifically cannabis in this case, in a solution of water and nutrients. This can be done with or without the help of an inert medium such as grow rock, sand, gravel or rock wood. By definition, however, the plants are grown without soil.

Advantages of Hydroponics

Plants inevitably grow well when they have exactly what they need, when they need it and in the precise amounts in which they need it. With soil, this is a difficult task. This is because soil is an ecosystem unto itself with changing bacteria, pH and nutrient quantities. With hydroponics, those variables are eliminated. The pH, nutrient levels and temperature are easily controlled.

Choosing a Medium
When starting out, the first thing to do is decide whether to use an inert material. If you do decide to use one, you also need to choose and procure the type you desire. A careful cleaning is then required to protect the plant.

Growing without an inert medium, known as the nutrient film technique, or N.F.T., is a commonly practiced form of hydroponics. It involves placing a plant's roots directly into a constantly moving film of nutrient enriched water. The grower uses landscaping fabric or other medium to cover the roots, blocking light.

If you do decide to use an inert material, there are several to choose from. Basic choices include gravel and sand. These are easily procured but difficult to clean and not reusable. Other choices include rockwool, oasis cubes and coco. The most popular, however, are expanded clay (also known as pop rocks) and lava rocks.

Both of the most popular types are porous and have a neutral pH. They are easily cleaned and reusable. Both work well for systems that have good irrigation. Aside from that, each have advantages dependent on the system being used.

Lava Rocks are easily procured and relatively cheap. It is sold in the landscaping area of a home improvement store in large bags containing huge chunks of red, very porous rock. They work well in any system that benefits from the stability of a large, heavy medium. They prevent large plants from shifting and damaging the roots. Being larger, they can also be arranged to anchor items like air stones, drip lines, stakes and more.

To prepare lava rocks, you must soak them for three to five days. After this, they must be rinsed prior to use. After use, they must be methodically cleaned. For some growers, it is easier to simply buy new lava rocks between uses.

Pop Rocks are small, round balls of pelletized, fired shale. It holds and transmits water well. The balls are evenly sized and easier to clean. This material works well in most set-ups.

Many consider this the ideal medium for hydroponics. The even sizing of the pellets provides plenty of space for water and for root growth. Also, the clay repels water but the surface tension causes each ball to retain a thin coating of water.

To prepare, simply rinse the pop rocks well. The high temperatures of the firing process sterilizes the clay. However, mold can form in the bags. The only disadvantage to this medium is that it can be difficult to get.


Maintaining the System

Once the system is set up and plants are placed, the real work begins. Regardless of the type of system, there are things that must be done on a daily and weekly basis. Testing pH, sterilizing equipment, inspection of plants and equipment and other tasks must be done regularly.

On a daily basis, plants must be checked for disease, pH must be tested and the testing equipment must be sterilized between systems as well as before and after. On a weekly basis, nutrient solution should be changed. When this happens, all pumps, filters, gaskets, strainers, air stones and other equipment should also be cleaned.

Importance of pH
One of the most important parts of the hydroponic system is the ability to control the pH. For some, this means shooting for a specific number. Research, however, shows us that it is more important to shoot for a range.

Nutrient availability is at its best when pH is slightly acidic. Because of this, it is best to shoot for a pH between 5.5 and 5.8. Unfortunately, it can be difficult to maintain this level. The best method for identifying and altering a pH that is out of whack is to monitor daily and change the solution weekly. Solution can be changed more often if warranted.